Framing & Backdrop

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April 2006 Backdrop Transition Photos

Inspired by Alan Rocket’s excellent layout and his description of how he used photos of the area he models to form a transition between the layout and the sky, I researched how I could do something similar. No commercial Australian backdrop scenes of a suitable size are available and having a single wide photo printed professionally would be cost prohibitive. I have used the panoramic photo merge options in Photoshop Elements 2 which works well enough to get a panorama photo from several frames that overlap. All well and good so far. The issue this topic deals with arises when it comes to actually printing the panoramas. I found that the photo programs I had could not handle the task. Trying to print specific sections resulted in very clear colour variations at the joins and was basically unworkable. I looked on the Internet for a program capable of breaking up a panoramic photo and enabling it to be printed on a ‘print to the edge’ A4 or Letter format colour printer. I have a Canon Pixma iP8500 which is an excellent colour printer and is able to print right to the edge of the page.

The program I found is actually Freeware which is a bonus and comes from http://cpicture.net/en The developers have done a great job of making a very easy to use program.

After installing the program, which is straightforward, you will need to go to the Tools menu and click on ‘Activate additional functions’, which is where you will find the ‘Split Panorama Picture’ function. This screen shot shows how the Split Panorama Picture function works on a photo, breaking it up into printable sections.

cPicture

This screen shot shows how the program segments the photo based on printer settings.

cPicture1

Printing each segment produces a series of photos that can be butt joined on a suitable surface. I used the foamed PVC sheeting as described below.

Here is my first effort. I had to look from less than 12 inches away to actually see the joins in the panorama.

This first picture shows an ‘under construction’ area of Britannia Creek with just the blue sky backdrop behind the also ‘under construction’ mine.

backdropwithout

This photo shows the backdrop panorama photo temporarily in place behind the mine. I think in the final positioning I will have it raised a bit higher but it serves to illustrate the point.

backdropwith

I am quite pleased with these early results and will be making good use of the cPicture software in the future as Britannia Creek progresses around the hobby room.

Mario Rapinett’s Aluminium Framing Method

This framing approach is good for exhibition layouts where light weight and easy assembly is needed. It is also a great no-nonsense framing method for more permanent layouts, which is what we are building in our hobby room.

First experiences with modules in aluminum

2004 During research on the best way to build our second layout I came first across the module concept. Bryce Workman’s module (at http://www.fcsme.org/ ) shows what can be done with a module. After deciding to go modular I came across Mario Rapinett’s description of his aluminium framing technique on the Australian NMRA web site. Mario invited me to an NMRA meeting at John Hunter’s place. I joined the NMRA just prior to attending. John is an excellent modeller and used Mario’s framing technique for the Mount Ash On30 layout. John kindly went over some details with me, as had Mario previously. Taking that advice into consideration I started on the first set of three 600mm x 1200mm modules (approximately 2 feet x 4 feet) as shown here.

This series of pictures shows the components for 3 modules and the first module being built. An angle grinder can be used to cut the tubing or the supplier Capral Aluminium will cut the tubing to required sizes for a small fee.

1. Components for three 2’ x 4’ modules with two levels. Click on the photos for a larger view.

2. 2’ x 4’ frame almost complete showing level 1 and 2 - A rubber mallet is all that is needed. Later adjustments to the frame included increasing the height for the upper deck backdrop and using Aluminum sheet for the top cover rather than MDF or 3-ply to save weight.

This picture shows a simple way to fix the lighting to the frame. I have settled on using 36W battens with flex and plug already fitted with 5000° tubes. This avoids electrical installation issues. Their general position in relation to the backdrop are adjustable.

The fascia was made of Aluminum sheet. This photo show the three modules are they are as at July 2004, ready for track and scenery. Note that only two lights are on in this photo.

Note: Since this first set of modules was built we have enclosed our double carport for a hobby room and have started on a layout making best use of that available space. I’m not intending to do exhibition layouts but the aluminum framing technique works just as well for home layouts.